Garage Door Installation

A basic single-skin steel single door installed sits at the low end, a standard insulated double door in the middle, and carriage-house or custom glass-and-aluminium doors considerably higher. Insulation R-value, steel gauge, windows and hardware drive most of the difference. Every quote we give includes removal and disposal of the old door.

If the garage is attached, has living space above it, or you use it as a workshop, yes. An insulated door with a polyurethane core makes a measurable difference to how cold the garage gets and to how much heat the adjoining rooms lose. If it is a detached, unheated garage used purely for storage, the case is much weaker.

Often yes, if the opener is reasonably modern, has working photo-eye sensors and is rated for the weight of the new door. Heavier insulated doors sometimes need a stronger unit. We check the horsepower rating and the safety features during the site measure and tell you before you order.

Small repairs such as sensor realignment, a roller swap or a limit adjustment are usually the minimum service charge. A torsion spring replacement on a standard double door is the most common job and sits in the low hundreds for a matched pair fitted. Opener repairs depend on whether it is a gear kit or a logic board. You get a flat number before we start, not an hourly rate.

Most your city calls booked before early afternoon get a same-day slot, and anything after that is typically next morning. Emergencies such as a trapped car, a door stuck open or storm damage are prioritised and dispatched around the clock. When you call we give you a two-hour arrival window rather than a vague day.

That is the safety reversal doing its job. Either the photo-eye sensors are misaligned or obstructed, or the close-force setting on the opener is too sensitive, or something in the track is physically stopping the door. Check the sensors first: both lights should be steady, not blinking. If they look fine, it is usually a force adjustment.